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25.02.2020

#SuzyMFW: Bravura Behind The Masks

25.02.2020
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Milan Fashion Week ended in a cloud of fear and confusion as the coronavirus spread with unexpected speed across northern Italy. Good health is infinitely more important than what covers the body. Yet, literally from behind the masks, a new and younger spirit is emerging. 

© GoRunway.com

Three shows were stand-outs. First, Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta did everything right: a set that took the audience on a digital journey back to the nymphs and marble statues of ancient Italy, but without leaving a trace behind. The same past/future attitude applied to the men’s and women’s clothes, which were slender, shapely, and with the hit of Autumn 2020 – fringing, seen here as skirts and dangling from bags. Mostly small and compact, these accessories looked like instant hits.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Francesco Risso of Marni is a great designer of bags - but there were only two like this on show.

Post udostępniony przez Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue)

The only two bags that Francesco Risso produced for Marni – in spite of the company’s roots in handcraft – were collages of the myriad materials used for the clothes. From the paint palette make-up and abundant use of glitter, the effect was poetic. The same could not be said for his own appearance, taking a bow in a rabbit outfit straight out of Alice in Wonderland. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Marni by Francesco Risso

Post udostępniony przez Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue)

At Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, a youth quake shook up an audience loving his shapes, layers, and sweet colours. Italy’s ability to turn the wildest ideas into reality made this a stellar show.

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Autumn/Winter 2020
© GoRunway.com

The spirited designer Christelle Kocher, of the Koché brand in Paris, is the guest designer at Pucci. But her lively show, embracing pattern and youthful sportiness, is a one-off for Pucci, which seems incapable of committing to an ideal Creative Director. 

Emilio Pucci Autumn/Winter 2020
© GoRunway.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Emilio Pucci - finale

Post udostępniony przez Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue)

You don’t have to be 30-something to make a young collection. Angela Missoni was about that age when she helped her parents Rosita and Ottavio bring fresh blood into the company, and it continues to draw on its talented family. 

Missoni Autumn/Winter 2020
© GoRunway.com

The Missoni show had all the right bohemian rhapsodies of colour and stitching, while the skill of blending art, fashion, and architecture seems to come naturally to Angela. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Veronica Etro opens up her show

Post udostępniony przez Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue)

Veronica Etro has also reached a stage when recycling the family history of pattern and colour seems to work each season. This time around, however, Veronica added shimmering gilded fabrics and silvered materials to add sophistication to the look.

Etro Autumn/Winter 2020
© GoRunway.com

Turning an accessories company into a full-grown fashion business is a particular fashion skill – as seen at Prada. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

You see it here - you see it there. Prada’s sexy chic is everywhere

Post udostępniony przez Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue)

Miuccia Prada’s announcement that she was to share her talents with Raf Simons stunned the fashion world. But judging by the impeccable tailoring and the fringed skirts, Miuccia has ideas of her own. 

The fringe in all its forms was a real take-away from Milan, from Ferragamo to Bottega. Gabriele Colangelo presented his fringing sewn flat on a coat or blouse – or even as striking turquoise strings under a pale beige dress. Strands are a story for the Autumn/Winter 2020 season. 

Gabriele Colangelo Autumn/Winter 2020
© Estrop / Getty

There is a marked difference between those designers who are hoping to launch fashion clothing when the company is built on accessories, and those who already produce fashion collections. At Tod’s Walter Chiapponi had a strong start, making the fashion seem to grow from the feet upwards.

Tod's Autumn/Winter 2020
© GoRunway.com

Like so many rebranded Milanese design houses that started with accessories, it’s from these details that people will remember this visually lovely season.

Basia Czyżewska
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