#SuzyPFW: Jean Paul Gaultier Looks To The Far East

Chitose Abe, the Japanese founder and creative director of Sacai, is to design one-off haute couture for the French designer.

“For the new collection I thought of Sacai - whose work I find so interesting and because we seem to have so much in common,” said Jean Paul Gaultier, breaking the news that he would pass the couture flame in July to Chitose Abe - the Japanese designer who made herself famous with a very Gautier-like skill: creating an outfit that told one story from the front and another completely different one from the back.

Gaultier, who said “goodbye” to fashion with a star studded cast of performers during the last couture season in January, is now moving on. His idea is to choose a different participant each season in his fashion Game of Thrones. And the work of the discreet but imaginative Sacai caught his attention for this upcoming season.

“I liked so much her techniques in her last collection and even how they look in the boutiques, where the workmanship is superb and the fluff and leathers are such good quality," said Gaultier, heaping praise on the designer who is increasingly appreciated in the fashion world.

The Sacai line, founded in 1999, after the designer had worked at Comme des Garçons, has recently collaborated with Nike - the ultimate sports brand - and the designer’s name is now known by a much wider fashion audience.  Being chosen by the universally renowned Gaultier must be an exceptional career booster for the Sacai label.

"I have a long held admiration for Jean Paul's unique vision of subversive femininity, and his originality - both of which I’ve strived towards in my work since the beginning,” said Chitose Abe, explaining that she saw it as “a true honour to be given the opportunity to be custodian of his house as the first designer of this project.”

The idea that enfant terrible Gaultier, 67, is handing the baton to another generation, will certainly make news - not least because there are a number of designers of his age who may also be thinking of the future.
Gaultier enthuses over the Sacai work and its stores, saying that he liked the high quality and the use of furry fabrics and feathers.

“The idea of different designers interpreting one haute couture brand first came to me in the Nineties - the thought that Thierry Mugler, Romeo Gigli or Vivienne Westwood could take over a major house,” said Gaultier, the words spilling out in a rush of excitement. 

He also quoted historic movements: Christian Lacroix starting his career at Patou in 1981 - as did Karl Lagerfeld in 1960 and Gaultier himself from 1971-3. His own fashion house has now reached half a century.

Although no-one is talking about it, Puig, the Spanish-based international fragrance company that is behind Gaultier’s financial success, must be the reason why the designer is committed to supporting the business that holds his name.

The fact that Chitose Abe - and any subsequent designers - are under the auspices of Puig should ensure the continuing success of Gaultier’s saucy fragrances.

And there is the question: can a designer - and perhaps especially a Japanese one - pick up the ”oh la la!” sexiness that is so very French? Not to mention the essence of haute couture for which Gaultier  - for all his witty jokes - is a master.