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14.09.2018

#SuzyNYFW Gabriela Hearst: Art In Her Heart

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The designer was inspired by creative partnerships, paintings and woven fabrics

As she explained the stories behind her creations, Gabriela Hearst talked about her many artistic inspirations. 

Gabriela Hearst spring/summer ready-to-wear 2019, Credit: LUCA TOMBOLINI/INDIGITAL.TV

“The main one was the creative partnership between Jorge Luis Borges and María Kodama,” she explained.

“Then there are the colours from three paintings by Hieronymus Bosch in the Prado Museum," she continued. 

"And the jewellery I took from a Quentin Massys’ painting - 'Christ presented to the People'."

Gabriela Hearst spring/summer ready-to-wear 2019, Credit: LUCA TOMBOLINI/INDIGITAL.TV

Phew! Since Gabriela told me about her many inspirations before the show, I expected clothes with layers of complexity.

 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gabriela Hurst in movement

 

 

Post udostępniony przez Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue)


But, instead, there were streamlined dresses, flaring to a hem just above the ankle. And her more familiar severe tailored trouser suit, but offered in a rich palette of colours, especially shades of pink - from cherry blossom to cherry brandy. 

Gabriela Hearst spring/summer ready-to-wear 2019 Credit: LUCA TOMBOLINI/INDIGITAL.TV

Gabriela had different categories of fabric for her designs, some jacquard, others embroidered. But with the heart of her work in the wool from the family ranch in Uragui, there was not quite enough focus on knits.

Gabriela Hearst spring/summer ready-to-wear 2019, Credit: LUCA TOMBOLINI/INDIGITAL.TV

Like just about every female fashion designer, Gabriela is really aiming this collection at herself, which rules out anyone not elongated and elegant. 

But the designer seems to be trying different paths for her work, and has already taken strong strides forward. 

The company is moving ahead with shoes with cork heels, chosen for sustainability. And her irresistible handbags, sold to the few as art objects.

Gabriela Hearst spring/summer ready-to-wear 2019, Credit: LUCA TOMBOLINI/INDIGITAL.TV
 

"At the end of the day, what we do is provide a service," she said. 

"Artists are responsible to their self expression. But my role is a service to other women.”

Suzy Menkes
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