After separation from the Kering group, Christopher Kane is flourishing with a show that mixed kinky with humour.
A scarlet woman? Indeed, with her brief red satin dress bouncing over a shocking pink petticoat, with a sports top opening up a see-through slither above the bust, and with the word 'rubberist' printed below and two gloved hands crawling across the bosoms.
Freed from his backer, the international Kering group, while some designers might whither, Kane is flourishing - at least in terms of vibrant creativity. His show was a mix of kinky and jokey that is typically English. Fetishism was presented with a laugh and, hidden in the clothes, was often barely visible on the runway.
“These are just normal people living in society but there are so many different fetishes or obsessions that we don’t know about that it really intrigues me,” said the designer after a show that he described as built on “fluidity and liquid”.
That referred to a slim satin skirt sliding from thigh to knee, a mini skirt patterned with drops of slimy green water or just a rubbery coat that could be seen as sexy rather than rainproof.
Kane is an imaginative and witty designer and his play on elements of sexuality was sharply done, for all the softness of a white lacy shirt or the jokiness of a balloon-patterned sweater marked ‘looner’ that seemed equally to be referencing the cosmos or fetishism.
“There are blood bags and urine vials, but basically it is about the whole idea of fluidity - and it’s OK to be as fluid as you can,” said Kane.
“Then there was the silhouette of a beautiful umbrella cup-cake shirt, really feminine, but also twisted - we always do sexy different from everyone else,” continued the designer, referring to his close collaboration with his sister Tammy.
It was good to see Kane bouncing back after his break up with the big money group. The result was a plethora of desirable clothes behind the kinky weird bits. Those sexual references could look cool or cute, as in necklaces worked into a shirt at the bosoms and appearing again as a sneaky look embedded in the skirt.
Kane is unique and it was good to see him unleash his Freudian fashion dreams.
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