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14.09.2018

#SuzyNYFW Coach 1941: Unravelling The Prairie

Coach 1941 ready-to-wear spring/summer 2019, Credit: MARCUS TONDO/INDIGITAL.TV
 

Disney is part of the story concocted by designer Stuart Vevers

Taking a central role in the vast Coach arena was an epic creature - a brontosaurus. But put together with a decrepit car and various broken objects, this was not a noble vision of Big Country America.

Coach 1941 ready-to-wear spring/summer 2019,Credit: MARCUS TONDO/INDIGITAL.TV

And that is how creative director Stuart Vevers wanted it, the better to give an edge to the prairie look he has designed for Coach 1941.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Coach: watch out for Disney references

Post udostępniony przez Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue)

This summer collection was not as bleak and black as last season’s.  

“It’s more like part two of our fall collection," the designer explains.

Coach 1941 ready-to-wear spring/summer 2019,Credit: MARCUS TONDO/INDIGITAL.TV

"She was a romantic goth last season and here she is still a dreamer but it’s about unravelling the prairie." 

Vevers said he was struck by the run-down state of tiny country communities with just a scattering of dilapidated buildings. 

"Sometimes half the house was propped by an airplane wing, and there was something about the feeling of salvaging the American heirlooms which became a big part of this collection."

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Coach

Post udostępniony przez Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue)

Wouldn’t this scruffy country world mean ragged and rough clothes? Far from it, for ankle length skirts were teamed with a boldly knitted top, or a white ruffled skirt would partner with an elegant turquoise coat. The men were more casually dressed, but in fine fabrics from leather to shearling.

Coach 1941 ready-to-wear spring/summer 2019,Credit: MARCUS TONDO/INDIGITAL.TV

Then there was Disney. Dumbo the elephant popped up on a sweater; Bambi on a barrel bag. And Captain Hook on an intarsia sweater that you would never find down on the farm.

Coach 1941 ready-to-wear spring/summer 2019, Credit: MARCUS TONDO/INDIGITAL.TV

In the show notes, Coach defined the Disney collaboration as "re-mixing beloved American pop culture icons". That is one way of describing a Bambi hoodie!

"It was the idea that we were salvaging and scavenging these references - that’s what I really loved," the designer said.

Coach 1941 ready-to-wear spring/summer 2019, Credit: MARCUS TONDO/INDIGITAL.TV

The torn, soiled prairie landscape was not much different from last season’s show. But Vevers has succeeded in conjuring out of the air a wardrobe for Coach, a brand known, until recently, primarily for handbags.

Coach 1941 ready-to-wear spring/summer 2019, Credit: MARCUS TONDO/INDIGITAL.TV

He waxed lyrical over the Disney connections and especially using the Seventies' ‘Aristocats’ movie and creating what he calls a "twisted fairy tale".

Coach 1941 ready-to-wear spring/summer 2019, Credit: MARCUS TONDO/INDIGITAL.TV

"I imagine the Coach gang, near Santa Fe, near the mountains so there’s a little bit of a mountaineering thread," Vevers said. 

"That brings something very authentic and real which I think Coach should always have.”

Suzy Menkes
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