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29.01.2020

#SuzyCouture: Iris Van Herpen Brings Beauty From An Underwater World

29.01.2020
© Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty

The designer entered uncharted territory by exploring deep water, and emerged with waves of desirable clothes.

Iris van Herpen has used many odd shapes and strange materials to make her eerie clothes, wrapped across the body, suggest fashion sense. But this season’s collection – with its fluttering fabrics and the sense of deep water – nailed it.

Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020
© Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty

The designer kept to her complex vision of fashion, including kinetic sculptures and the mighty ocean, but she turned her exploratory thoughts into something wearable and manageable – give or take the hefty and wobbly high-heeled shoes.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Iris Van Herpen: “”the first sets of inspiration came from.the Spanish neuroanatomist”

Post udostępniony przez Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue)

“I think it comes more naturally because I am used to connecting two processes,” the designer explained. “The collection is called ‘Sensory Seas’ and the inspiration came from two different sides. One was really beautiful – paintings of our nervous systems; the way our brains connect to our senses. I found them beautiful paintings, and I was really mesmerised by the way that the art and science merged.”

Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020
© Victor VIRGILE

“The other inspirations came from our own senses and the deep sea – both worlds are very unexplored,” she continued. “So I tried to combine both into the one collection.”

Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020
© Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty

With just 21 outfits, the designer created wearable dresses that never suggested fear about melting ice and a submerged planet. Rather, they looked elegant. As ever with Iris, it is impossible to equal her depth of knowledge. She talked about “the first threads of inspiration” coming from the Spanish neuroanatomist Santiago Ramón y Cajal, whose microscopic studies and merging of science and art led the designer to consider him one of the world’s great inventors.

Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2020
© Peter White/Getty

Iris cited another inspiration from the ocean depths: “the indelible nuances between the anthropology of a marine organism” and its effects.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Iris Van Herpen “Sensory Seas”

Post udostępniony przez Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue)

Yet the takeaway from this Haute Couture collection was that it was a genuine fashion show, as if all the studying and learning of past years had come up for air – and offered the audience objects of desire.

Iris van Herpen greets the audience at the close of her Spring/Summer 2020 Haute Couture show
© Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty

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